5 tips for planning your first professional fashion photoshoot - a guide for designers and fashion brand owners
Thinking about your first ‘proper’ photoshoot is both exciting and daunting, so I’ve put together a few tips to help you get the most out of it, while avoiding some common mistakes. All of this is based on my work as a fashion photographer working mainly with new and emerging, local and small businesses around Surrey, Sussex and London. I LOVE working with new and smaller brands because great photography can make a massive difference to their futures and for me it’s all about building long term partnerships that foster mutual growth and economic success.
On location bridal couture image for VZ Perfection
Invest in good models
It’s tempting to save money by using friends and family as your models BUT just because people are attractive, doesn’t mean they are good in front of camera. As a photographer, working with experienced models means that less time is spent getting them into the right poses and expressions, so in general more looks can be shot in the allotted time. It also means that the images will be better - simple as that. Experienced models know how to position their bodies and faces to show off clothes to the best effect. They know how to look natural and relaxed while also being precise about posing and reacting effectively to lights, surroundings and other models. Just because someone takes great selfies, also doesn’t mean they can pose for a photographer. When they cannot see what shot is being taken, most people don’t achieve images as good as those they have perfected for their personal feeds with the selfie camera.
Professional models are also better at adapting to your desired look and feel, whereas may social media personalities have a set style and look that they can’t (or won’t) deviate from. If you want your shoot to look like your brand and not theirs, be sure to check out the model’s portfolio and look for variety and work similar to what you are looking for.
You can expect to pay anything from £150 upwards per day for a model, with more experienced models commanding greater prices. If you’re on a budget, it’s worth contacting local model agencies and asking for their ‘new faces’ who are generally looking to expand their portfolios and may be willing to work for less money in return for images they can use. Obviously these folk are not as experienced, but they will still have been scouted by the agents who know what to look for and will likely have some shoots under their belts.
You’ll also want to ensure that your models have the right look for your brand and target audience and to think about diversity in your model choices. Diversity will mean different things for different brands, but think carefully about who might enjoy your brand and ensure you have models that will appeal to them. I always recommend a minimum of two models for a shoot, because while one is changing or in hair and makeup the other can be in front of camera, so try and ensure they aren’t too similar looking.
For a great variety of models check out Zebedee Talent
Editorial fashion shot for VZ Perfection with hair and makeup by Heidi Smith
2. Think carefully about hair and makeup
While professional hair and makeup is always recommended and will definitely make your life easier and your images better - what’s almost more important is to have a clear idea about what you are looking for from the hair and makeup. In most situations, fashion photography hair and makeup falls into one of two styles - Editorial or Clean/Natural.
Editorial makeup is more dramatic, and so called because it’s often seen in magazines and adverts where the overall image is not just about the clothes, but about the whole piece of art. Editorial looks take much longer, so if you’re going for this you need to account for that. Allow anything from 1.5 hrs upwards for a ‘big’ look such as that in the image above. You also need to work closely with your hair and makeup artists well in advance of the shoot, to agree upon the look and ensure they understand what you need. This is art remember - so your artists will create something that works for the model and the styling within the colour palette or themes you specify but every look is different every time so you will need to be a bit flexible.
Clean/natural looks are more often used for catalogue type work where the focus is much more on the clothes themselves. Don’t be fooled though - this still takes time and working with good people will make all the difference to how successful it is. Colour matching foundation to model skin tones is a particular concern here and inexperienced makeup artists often struggle with darker skin tones in particular so check beforehand that your makeup artist is experienced working with your models’ skin tones and that they have the necessary colours in their makeup kits. Similarly check that your hair stylist has experience working with your models’ hair textures. It is not OK for a model to find that either the makeup artist or hair stylist cannot handle their skin or hair type - so check beforehand and make sure everyone is happy. I’ve heard too many horror stories, particularly from black models, about having to do their own hair or foundation on a shoot - it leaves a very bad taste in the mouth and takes up a lot of shoot time - not cool!
Remember, not all makeup artists also do hair and vice versa. Having separate hair and makeup artists can be more time efficient on a busy shoot but does add cost. Also note that hair and makeup artists may have particular specialties - for example wedding artists are often not experienced with photoshoots (where makeup needs to be a bit heavier and more defined to show up on camera) so be sure to check before you book and realise that if you’re asking someone to step outside their usual work, you may need to allow more time and recognise that the result may not be as polished.
If you can’t afford professional hair and makeup then I recommend keeping it very simple with a sleek pulled back hair style and clean/natural makeup. Ensure that the model’s skin is matte and not shiny - if they are using their own foundation ensure that they know that it needs to be matte and that they have powder. Less is more in this situation and be sure to ask your photographer to take a test shot of the makeup before they start shooting so that any issues can be spotted early.
On location fashion shot for Nettie Knows boutique published in Surrey Rocks magazine
3. Choose your location wisely!
Location choice can genuinely make or break your shoot, both aesthetically and practically. Obviously you want a location that matches your vibe and brand vision and which appeals to your target customer. More established brands can also benefit from going bold with location, choosing somewhere unexpected (such as bridal wear shot in front of graffiti or office fashion shot in the pub) but when you’re starting out you need a collection of core brand images that you can use again and again to reinforce your brand story.
Light is the single most important factor in choosing your location, it’s your photographer’s main concern! Good natural light makes everything easier and while you can get striking images in dark locations such as tunnels, your photographer will need a lot more lighting equipment and time to get the shot so you will get less shots overall from your shoot. A good variety of options within the location is also key to ensuring your shots don’t all look the same. Look for different areas with different lighting and aspects so that you can move around during the day to find the best spots. Remember that bright sunny weather isn’t ideal as it creates harsh shadows on faces and clothes so ensure you have spots with shade available for shooting when the sun is highest.
Practically speaking you need to know that many locations will not allow professional photography or will charge a fee. This includes most National Trust properties and almost all private houses and gardens plus many areas of London and other cities. It is always best to contact your location in advance and check whether you can shoot there. There is nothing worse than getting part way through a shoot only for someone to turn up and turf you out - very embarassing! Also consider what it will be like if the place is busy with people? How will you ensure privacy for models changing and for doing hair and makeup? Having tons of people drifting through your shots, and stopping to watch the performance is distracting for everyone involved and will slow down the shoot so if you don’t have exclusive use of your location you will need to factor in extra time or accept that you will get less shots.
Many beautiful venues will allow you to shoot there in exchange for photographs they can use. This is great but check your photographer is happy with that first as many photographers will not provide a license for anyone other than the paying client as a matter of course and they may need to charge you extra for additional people to be able to use the images.
Finally, shooting outdoors is wonderful but always have a backup plan in case the weather is awful!
Outdoor country wear shoot for Hive Country
4. Don’t try and cram too much in
Given the investment you’re making in your shoot it’s really tempting to try and shoot as many outfits or setups as possible to get your money’s worth. However - this approach has two negative effects on your shoot. One it can make you and everyone involved feel rushed and that can lead to stress and overwhelm - both of which will show in your pictures. I’m a firm believer that a photoshoot should be an enjoyable experience for everyone, it’s a celebration and while we should all be working hard for the best results, that doesn’t mean rushing about like a blue arsed fly!
Secondly, cramming too much in means less time to perfect each individual shot. So while your shots will be good, they won’t be as good as they could be if everyone was there making tweaks to the pose, hair, lighting etc. to make something really extra special. In reality, you are going to get more use out of a smaller number of really awesome images than you are out of hundreds of mediocre ones. Trust me when I say that it’s not just a matter of pressing the button. You’ll notice things in an image that you won’t notice in person, so having the time to review and adjust the details will be vital in getting the best possible results. This is particularly important in group shots where it becomes exponentially more complex to get things right for every model.
The only exception to this is if you’re doing an e-commerce shoot - but I count that as product photography or ‘pack shots’ rather than fashion.
When planning your shoot, I therefore recommend focusing on your high value and signature pieces, focus on getting those right and have a few backup options for if there’s time - but don’t stress about covering everything.
Vintage gown photography for Scarlet Rage Vintage feature in The Vintage Woman magazine
5. Pre-plan your styling
This is particularly important if you are styling your shoot yourself and not using a professional stylist. Planning what pieces go together, and what ancillary items go with what is a vital part of a smooth running shoot. Planning which outfits go together for group shoots is also a massive time saver on the day. I recommend laying out combinations together and snapping them on your phone so that you can refer back to them on the day. Equally knowing what will fit and suit each model in advance will save you a lot of time and stress.
If you don’t make all the items in the shoot, consider working with another designer or brand who can provide you with the additional pieces that you need to perfect a complete look. Shoes are often a problem area because clients often rely on models to bring their own and they may not have what you had in mind.
You can also use a moodboard to gather together images that are similar to what you’re looking for from your shoot, and share that in advance with everyone involved so they know what to expect. The less surprises on the day the better, and everyone being on the same page minimises the risk of any ‘diva moments’ or misunderstandings.
Remember that there’s a big difference between styling for actual wear and styling for editorial - which is generally a lot more dramatic and ‘extra’. Hiring a professional stylist is a fantastic option if you’re not totally comfortable with styling for photography and a good stylist will be able to take your concepts and ideas and bring them to life, as well as helping source any additional pieces that are needed.
Perfectly styled bridal party editorial with VZ Perfection and Vandalised with Love (hats)
Conclusion
There’s a lot to think about in planning for success with a fashion shoot. It is possible to do it on a budget but some areas are really false economies and I always recommend a smaller more focused shoot where you can spend your budget where it will make the most difference, rather than trying for a large scale shoot with insufficient budget.
I’m always happy to help and advise clients on shoot planning, and because my focus is always on building a long term partnership I’m invested in your shoot being the very best it can be. Your first photoshoot is a milestone in the development of your brand and your business and should be a celebration of everything you have achieved. It should also set you up for the future, giving you quality images that you can use again and again to take advantage of every marketing opportunity available to you. You should be aiming for images that can be published in magazines and blogs favoured by your ideal clients, that make your website sparkle and your social media pop!
A lot of this is in the details and the planning - so don’t rush this! Take your time to plan and get everything in place, so you can enjoy the shoot on the day.
Siân Tyrrell is a professional people and product photographer based in Surrey and working across the South East of England. Her fashion work has been widely published in magazines and she specialises in emerging and small fashion designers and brands.
For more of Siân’s fashion work please visit https://www.siantphoto.com/fashion-beauty-editorial